HISTORY OF JEWELRY
Jewelry from various historical periods spanning centuries
The history of jewelry can be traced back thousands of years, to ancient civilizations such as Egypt, Greece, and Rome. Jewelry was often used as a symbol of power, wealth, and social status, and was worn by both men and women. In many cultures, jewelry was also used for religious or spiritual purposes, and was believed to have protective or healing properties. As technology and materials advanced, the art of jewelry-making became more refined, with intricate designs and precious metals and gemstones being used to create stunning pieces. Today, jewelry continues to be a popular form of self-expression and personal adornment, with a wide range of styles and trends available to suit every taste and budget.
MODERN - 1960 – PRESENT
During this period, jewelry designers began experimenting with unconventional materials such as plastic, paper, and aluminum, resulting in the creation of unique and experimental designs. The use of geometric shapes, bright colors, and asymmetrical designs became popular, reflecting the abstract art movements of the time.
The influence of pop culture on jewelry design was also significant during this era, with music icons such as Elvis Presley and the Beatles influencing the styles of jewelry worn by the public. In recent years, contemporary jewelry has continued to evolve, with designers pushing the boundaries of traditional jewelry-making techniques and incorporating new technologies such as 3D printing into their designs.
Overall, modern and contemporary jewelry represents a significant shift in the history of jewelry-making, characterized by its innovative designs and use of unconventional materials, reflecting the ever-changing cultural and social landscape of the world.
RETRO - 1935 – 1955
During the retro period, spanning from 1935 to 1955, Hollywood had a profound influence on jewelry design, as the glamour and glitz of the movie industry inspired bold and extravagant jewelry pieces. The retro style emphasized large and colorful gemstones, such as sapphires, rubies, and emeralds, often set in rose gold. The designs were characterized by curvilinear and asymmetrical shapes, and bold geometric motifs. The retro period was also marked by the use of synthetic stones, as natural gemstones became increasingly scarce due to the Second World War. The glamour and style of Hollywood stars like Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly, and Audrey Hepburn further popularized the retro style, with their iconic roles in films like "Casablanca" and "Roman Holiday" setting new trends in jewelry design. Overall, the retro period represented a return to glamour and extravagance after the austerity of the war years, reflecting the optimism and exuberance of the post-war era.
ART DECO - 1920 – 1930
The art deco period, which spanned from 1920 to 1930, is known for its fine and modern elegance in jewelry design. This style emerged as a reaction to the previous art nouveau style and featured crisp, symmetrical, and geometric forms that were often adorned with bold colors and materials.
Art deco jewelry designers utilized the latest technologies and innovative materials to create unique and striking pieces. They experimented with materials such as Bakelite, chrome, and stainless steel, in addition to traditional precious stones and metals like diamonds, platinum, and gold. The designs often featured bold geometric shapes and lines, such as triangles, rectangles, and zigzags, which were often paired with bright colors such as red, green, and blue.
The popularity of art deco jewelry peaked during the Roaring Twenties, a time of great social and cultural change, exemplified in F. Scott Fitzgerald's "The Great Gatsby," where the fine and decadent jewelry of the period is prominently featured. Art deco jewelry was often worn as a symbol of wealth and status, and the sleek and modern designs reflected the desire for sophistication and glamour in the post-World War I era. Overall, the art deco era produced some of the most unique and striking jewelry designs in history, representing a significant moment in the history of decorative arts.
ART NOUVEAU - 1890 - 1910
The art nouveau period, spanning from 1890 to 1910, was a significant artistic movement that emerged at the turn of the twentieth century. This style was established as the new decorative style after it was prominently featured at the 1900 World's Fair in Paris, France. Art nouveau jewelry was characterized by its elegant and ornate designs, featuring delicate lines, curves, and naturalistic forms that often depicted organic motifs such as flowers, leaves, and animals.
The use of innovative materials, such as enamel, glass, and horn, was also prominent during this era. Art nouveau jewelry designers aimed to capture the beauty of nature in their creations, with intricate and decorative designs that often featured elements such as butterflies, dragonflies, and peacocks. The use of colorful enamel and gemstones such as opals and pearls was also popular, adding a touch of vibrancy and playfulness to the pieces.
The art nouveau style was popular in the years leading up to the First World War and can be seen in later seasons of the television series "Downton Abbey," reflecting the luxurious and romantic aesthetic of the era. Art nouveau jewelry remains popular today for its intricate and decorative style, representing a significant moment in the history of decorative arts.
EDWARDIAN - 1901 – 1910
The Edwardian period, which lasted from 1901 to 1910, was marked by a significant shift towards total femininity in fashion and jewelry design. Platinum and diamonds became the preferred materials during this time, and delicate designs featuring lace, silk, feathers, and bows were highly sought after. The designs of Edwardian jewelry were highly influenced by the romanticism and extravagance of the time, resulting in the creation of some of the most exquisite and delicate jewelry pieces ever made.
Diamonds were essential in Edwardian jewelry, and the intricate use of delicate metalwork allowed for the creation of highly detailed and intricate designs. The use of platinum, which was a relatively new material at the time, allowed for the creation of intricate filigree and lace-like designs that were both lightweight and durable. Other popular gemstones during this era included pearls, sapphires, and emeralds.
The Edwardian era is known for its luxurious and elegant style, as exemplified in films such as "My Fair Lady," "Titanic," and "Anne of Green Gables." The jewelry of this period was often worn as a status symbol, reflecting the wealth and prestige of the wearer.
Overall, the jewelry of the Edwardian period is characterized by its delicate and intricate design, reflecting the romantic and luxurious sensibilities of the time. The use of platinum and diamonds, along with intricate metalwork, resulted in some of the most beautiful and timeless jewelry designs in history.
THE ARTS AND CRAFTS PERIOD - 1860 – 1890
The arts and crafts period, which spanned from 1860 to 1890, was a significant artistic and social movement that aimed to celebrate traditional craftsmanship and reject the mass-produced, industrialized goods of the time. The jewelry of this period reflected the movement's emphasis on nature, simplicity, and traditional craftsmanship, resulting in the creation of highly ornamented pieces that featured intricate designs, colorful enamel work, and an abundance of silver.
The jewelry of the arts and crafts period often emulated nature-based themes and Celtic knotted patterns, reflecting the movement's interest in the natural world and traditional craftsmanship. Many of the designs were also influenced by the arts of the Far East, featuring exotic and intricate motifs such as dragons and lotus flowers.
The arts and crafts jewelry was not just a decorative accessory but also held symbolic meaning, with many pieces incorporating meaningful inscriptions or images. The movement was particularly concerned with social justice and reform, and many pieces of jewelry featured political or social messages.
Overall, the jewelry of the arts and crafts period represents a unique moment in the history of decorative arts, characterized by its rejection of mass production and emphasis on traditional craftsmanship and nature-based themes. It was a time when artists and designers sought to celebrate the beauty of nature and honor the traditions of the past, resulting in some of the most beautiful and intricately crafted pieces of jewelry in history.
THE VICTORIAN ERA - 1837 – 1901
The Victorian era, which spanned from 1837 to 1901, was marked by significant changes and developments in jewelry design that reflected the social, cultural, and political changes of the time. Early Victorian jewelry featured delicate designs and intricate engravings, often inspired by nature and featuring motifs such as flowers, trees, and birds.
As the era progressed, jewelry designs became more elaborate and heavier, with twisted strands of gold wire and manipulation of gold into raised and fluted designs becoming increasingly popular. Victorian jewelry also incorporated a variety of precious and semi-precious stones, including diamonds, pearls, and sapphires. In addition to traditional designs, Victorian jewelry also featured more unconventional styles such as mourning jewelry, which incorporated hair or images of deceased loved ones into the design.
The Victorian era was a time of great social and cultural change, and the jewelry of this period reflects this with its diverse and evolving styles. For example, the introduction of the railway system led to a surge in tourism and a greater demand for souvenirs, which in turn influenced the production of jewelry that featured regional themes and motifs. The rise of the middle class also had an impact on the jewelry industry, as more people were able to afford luxury items like jewelry.
The Victorian era was also marked by significant advancements in manufacturing and technology, which allowed for greater precision and detail in jewelry making. This led to a wider variety of designs and styles, as well as the ability to create more affordable jewelry.
In summary, the Victorian era was a time of great change and development in jewelry design, with diverse and evolving styles that reflected the social, cultural, and political changes of the time. Victorian jewelry incorporated a variety of precious materials and stones, and its designs ranged from traditional to unconventional, reflecting the tastes and trends of the era.
1500 - 1830
The period from 1500 to 1830 marked a significant rise in the use of jewelry throughout Europe, particularly during the Renaissance and Georgian eras. Jewelry during this time was characterized by a variety of designs, including necklaces (single or multi-strand), earrings (ordinary or with chandeliers), and other ornamental pieces that were often decorated with images of animals, flowers, and other natural motifs.
Intricately designed gemstones, particularly diamonds, became increasingly popular during this period, and diamond jewelry was commonly used as a part of evening attire. The Georgian era, in particular, was known for its elaborate and ornate jewelry designs, which featured intricate metalwork and precious stones. This era also saw the rise of sentimental jewelry, which incorporated locks of hair, miniature portraits, and other personal mementos into the design.
Jewelry during this time period was not just a fashion accessory, but also served as a symbol of status and wealth, reflecting the social and cultural values of the time. The use of precious stones and metals, as well as the intricate designs and techniques, showcased the expertise of the craftsmen and their attention to detail.
Overall, the period spanning from 1500 to 1830 was a time of great artistic achievement in jewelry making, with designs that reflected the cultural and social values of the time. Jewelry was not just a decorative accessory but also held sentimental and symbolic meaning.
1066 - 1485
The Medieval period, spanning from 1066 to 1485, was a time when jewelry was widely used, particularly in religious ceremonies. Jewelry during this era was made from precious metals like gold and silver, and adorned with various gemstones such as rubies, sapphires, pearls, emeralds, semi-precious stones, and diamonds. The most famous designs of this time period were hair and cloth jewelry, which were worn during religious ceremonies and often featured intricate metalwork and gemstone embellishments. Religious symbols such as crosses, angels, and saints were also commonly incorporated into jewelry designs.
Jewelry during the Medieval period was not only a symbol of wealth and status, but also held religious and symbolic significance. It was believed that wearing certain types of jewelry could offer protection or bring good luck, and certain stones and metals were thought to have healing properties. Jewelry was also an important part of the religious life of the time, with bishops and priests often wearing jewelry that signified their position within the church.
In summary, the Medieval period was a time of great artistic achievement in jewelry making, with intricate designs that reflected religious and cultural values. Jewelry was not just a display of wealth and status, but also held religious and symbolic significance. The use of precious metals and gemstones, as well as the traditional techniques of metalwork and gemstone embellishments, created pieces that were both beautiful and meaningful.
400 - 1000 AD
The period between 400-1000 AD, commonly referred to as the European Dark Ages, was marked by a decline in the use of jewelry by the general population, with the exception of the nobility and royalty. The scarcity of jewelry during this time can be attributed to various factors, such as the fall of the Roman Empire and the loss of access to precious metals and gemstones that had been previously available. The spread of Christianity also discouraged the use of ostentatious displays of wealth, emphasizing simplicity and modesty in dress.
Nevertheless, examples of fine craftsmanship and intricate designs can still be found in the jewelry made for the elite. The Sutton Hoo burial site in England is a notable example, featuring intricate metalwork and gemstone embellishments. These pieces were often made using traditional techniques such as filigree, granulation, and cloisonné, and were valued for their beauty and skilled craftsmanship.
Despite the scarcity of jewelry during this period, the pieces that were made reflect the values and cultural influences of the time. The focus on simplicity and modesty in dress, as well as the traditional techniques used, are a testament to the resilience of craftsmanship even during challenging historical periods.
500 BC - 400 AD
During the Hellenistic period, Greek jewelry evolved into more elaborate and intricate designs that combined elements from Greek, Egyptian, and Asian cultures. Gold, silver, and precious stones such as emeralds, pearls, and amethysts were frequently used. The Roman Empire's influence on jewelry design was also significant, with cameos, intaglios, and intricate metalwork becoming popular. Glass beads were also introduced, providing a more affordable alternative to expensive gemstones. Jewelry during this period often served a symbolic purpose, with amulets and talismans believed to possess protective and healing powers.
The Hellenistic period marked a significant change in Greek jewelry design, with an increasing emphasis on individuality and luxury. Jewelry was not only a symbol of wealth and social status, but it also held deep cultural and religious meanings. Some of the most popular symbols used in Hellenistic jewelry were the serpent, the owl, the acanthus leaf, and the lotus flower. These motifs were often combined with intricate metalwork and gemstones to create unique and luxurious pieces.
In summary, the Hellenistic period marked a significant evolution in Greek jewelry design, with influences from other cultures and the increasing use of precious stones and metals. The symbolic meanings attached to jewelry during this time period provided a deeper layer of significance to the already exquisite designs.
1400 - 30 BC
Between 1400-30 BC, ancient Greek jewelry was renowned for its elaborate and intricate designs. The jewelry during this period drew inspiration from nature and featured motifs such as animals, shells, and floral patterns. The Greeks were skilled in using various materials, such as gold, silver, and bronze, to create their jewelry.
Gemstones were also a prominent feature in Greek jewelry, with amethysts, pearls, chalcedony, cornelian, garnet, and emeralds being particularly popular. Greek jewelry was often worn as a symbol of social status or to commemorate significant events such as weddings and religious ceremonies. Some of the most famous examples of ancient Greek jewelry are the intricate gold wreaths and diadems that have been found in royal tombs.
The Greeks' exquisite craftsmanship and attention to detail are evident in their jewelry, which has withstood the test of time. These intricate pieces offer a glimpse into the artistic achievements and cultural values of ancient Greece, and they continue to inspire and captivate people to this day.
2750 - 1200 BC
Ancient Mesopotamia was a region that produced a diverse range of jewelry, which was often inspired by natural elements. Designs featuring images of leaves, grapes, cones, and spirals were particularly common in Mesopotamian jewelry. These designs were often intricate and finely detailed, showcasing the skilled craftsmanship of the artisans who created them.
Gemstones were also an essential component of Mesopotamian jewelry. The use of gemstones was a way to add color and vibrancy to the designs. Some of the most popular gemstones used in Mesopotamian jewelry were agate, lapis, jasper, and carnelian. These stones were valued not only for their aesthetic qualities but also for their perceived spiritual significance.
The jewelry of Ancient Mesopotamia was worn by both men and women and served various functions, such as signifying social status or being used as an offering in religious ceremonies. The use of jewelry in religious practices was particularly prominent in Mesopotamia, where it was believed that the jewelry could serve as a conduit between humans and the divine.
Overall, the jewelry of Ancient Mesopotamia was a testament to the creativity and artistry of the civilization. These exquisite pieces have survived for thousands of years, providing us with a glimpse into the past and a greater understanding of the cultural and artistic achievements of this ancient civilization.
5000 - 30 BC
The period from 5000 BC to 30 BC is recognized as the prehistoric era of jewelry making. It was during this time that metalworking emerged, and copper became the first metal used for jewelry. Copper jewelry was fashioned into bracelets, necklaces, and anklets, and it was prevalent in the Middle East and Mediterranean region.
Around 4000 BC, the Egyptians uncovered the techniques of alluvial gold gathering, which marked a new era in jewelry production. The Egyptians promptly began crafting glazed steatite beads and countless jewelry designs based on scarab beetles, scrolls, winged birds, tigers, jackals, and antelopes. They also incorporated popular gemstones of that time, such as carnelian, feldspar, amethyst, chalcedony, lapis lazuli, and turquoise. Jewelry from this period was often worn as a symbol of status or religious significance, and it was frequently buried with the deceased as an adornment for the afterlife.
4400 BC
The ancient Thracians were a collection of Indo-European tribes that inhabited a vast area of Eastern Europe, which included what we now know as modern-day Bulgaria, Greece, Romania, and Turkey. They were renowned for their expertise in metallurgy, especially in goldsmithing.
In approximately 4400 BC, the Thracians produced some of the oldest objects made from gold that are known to us today. Among these items are two golden rings, discovered in the necropolis of Varna, which are thought to have been created during the Chalcolithic era.
The rings are intricately crafted and exhibit a blend of techniques, including filigree, granulation, and repoussé. One of the rings bears a stylized motif of an animal, while the other depicts two human faces.
The finding of these objects emphasizes the advanced skills of the Thracian goldsmiths and their exceptional mastery of metallurgy, even at an early stage in human history.
28,000 BC
The East Gravettian culture thrived during 28,000 BC in present-day Czech Republic. This prehistoric culture left behind a variety of artifacts, including early forms of jewelry and embellishment, as discovered by archaeologists. Notably, fossilized shells and ivory beads have been found, believed to have been used as components for necklaces or bracelets.
The unearthing of these relics provides valuable insights into the early evolution of human creativity and the desire for self-expression. Moreover, it highlights that the use of jewelry and adornment has been an integral aspect of human culture for thousands of years.
38,000 BC
The unearthing of bone and animal teeth beads in France is a significant finding as it represents some of the earliest evidence of jewelry production in human history. These beads were discovered in a cave located in the Hohle Fels area and date back to around 38,000 BC, during the Upper Paleolithic era.
It is probable that these beads were threaded together to form necklaces or bracelets, and the fact that they were crafted from animal materials suggests that they may have had some symbolic or spiritual importance to the individuals who created them. The use of personal embellishment and adornment is a crucial aspect of human culture and has been present for tens of thousands of years, evolving over time into the intricate and diverse forms of jewelry that we witness today.
110,000 - 73,000 BC
The unearthing of ornamental sea shell beads in Morocco traces back to a time frame ranging from 110,000 to 73,000 BC, which makes them among the earliest instances of human embellishment known to us. It is presumed that these shell beads were utilized as talismans or for aesthetic intentions. This discovery substantiates the fact that early humans had a knack for inventiveness and a longing for self-assertion, even in prehistoric eras. The utilization of shells as adornment persisted throughout human history and can still be witnessed in contemporary jewelry designing.